Friday, December 10, 2010

Saveur Takes On The Hunt

An interesting email from Saveur Magazine noted their collaboration with Outdoor life for some venison recipes. I am entirely unfamiliar with the cuts and preparations other than having had some amazing meals in an Atlanta restaurant that featured wild game options.

This might offer some new recipes or tips to others like me. Brigid, Ed - you guys can read and mock what with your years of experience in your apron pockets.

Here is the link...

2 comments:

Ed Rasimus said...

You will find as many "experts" on game handling as you will hunters. I looked at the bits on butchering, because I learned that was the key to a good meal very early on.

I found some good tips (sharp knife, hang head down, cure for a couple of days, label the cuts), but I also had some disagreement.

Main issue is that you shouldn't butcher a deer/elk/antelope the same way you butcher a steer. I learned that you never cut a bone. The sawdust permeates the meat and is a source of the unpleasant "gamey" taste. Better practice is to bone it all--cut all away from whole bones. Also remove all membranes and visible fat. They also lead to unpleasant taste.

If you grind, I prefer pure game animal but many add pork fat to make the cooked product juicier. That's a personal choice.

Field dress immediately, cool quickly, skin at the processor site and hang skinless, not as the butcher shop article suggested. Skin on keeps the dirt with the animal.

Recipes? Elk and mule deer venison are a replacement for prime beef. Antelope subs for veal in any quality preparation. Some traditional "Jaeger" stylings will always work--port wine, black cherries, mushrooms, bordellaise sauces or cream sauces. But that isn't a deal breaker.

Eastern game animals such as white-tail may be treated differently and I've got no clue about them. (Oh, mule deer don't have those lower leg musk glands!)

LauraB said...

Ed, you are a mad genius! I am definitely going to keep this info handy. I particularly like the one of boning the flesh to avoid the gamey flavor. Makes perfect sense.

If you've any fav books on charcuterie or other preparation, pls clue me in.